Visit Recanati
The hill town of Recanati is a little way inland from the Adriatic sea, to the west of Italy in the Marche region.
Start with Art
We recommend starting your visit from the Recanati Museum and Municipal Gallery, which houses a rich collection of paintings by Lorenzo Lotto (1480-1556), among which are the famous 'Annunciation'. The work dates from 1526 to 1528 and it was originally painted for the Oratory of “Santa Maria sopra Mercanti” of Recanati, where it remained until 1952, when it was transferred to the Municipal Gallery. Another work of great value by Lorenzo Lotto is the altarpiece of “Madonna and Child with Saints”, executed during the first activity of the painter. No less important is the "St. Giovanni Pellegrino," probably of 1512, which demonstrates the rules of perspective and the use of very modern and vibrant colour and light. Other sections in the Museum include the archaeological finds of the city, some items related to the figure of Giacomo Leopardi, and various other sections, devoted to Beniamino Gigli (1890-1957), musical instruments, and finally to contemporary artists of Recanati.
Back on the streets, and more artworks...
Continuing on we arrive at Leopardi Square, dominated by the “Torre del Borgo” (XII century), where there is a monument to Giacomo Leopardi. On the same square and also worthy of note is the church of San Domenico, in Romanesque style with the portal (1481) by Giuliano da Majano (1432-1490). Inside is the painting "St. Vincent Ferreri in Glory" by Lorenzo Lotto, probably from 1513.
In Via Falleroni stands Recanati Cathedral, built in late fourteenth century over an older church, then rebuilt in the eighteenth century. The interior has a basilica plan with three naves. Next there is the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, located in the Episcopate, which contains works from the 15th to 17th centuries, including a "Holy Family", attributed to Andrea Mantegna (1431-1506), "Saint Lucia" by Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, called the “Guercino” and a triptych of Ludovico Urbani [1460-1493] (1476).
In the region of Castelnuovo is the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria from 1139 and surely the oldest church in Recanati, which once belonged to the Monastery of “Fonte Avellana”. In the lunette of the portal, vaguely in Byzantine style, there is a bas-relief by “Mastro Nicola Anconetano” (1472-1511), depicting the “Madonna Enthroned with St. Michael and St. Gabriel.” Another fresco depicting the “Madonna and Child”, is located within, and is attributed to Pietro di Domenico da Montepulciano.
Recanati is not only a city with many churches but also a city with many prestigious palaces, among them the Venieri Palace, built by Cardinal Giacopo Venieri (1422-1479) and designed by Giuliano da Majano, who also directed the construction. Situated on both sides of the walls, it was designed as a residence and castle city. The court Renaissance arcades on three sides has Istria stone columns with capitals and the arms of Cardinals.
Leopardi palace
Visitors to Recanati must visit the famous "Leopardi Palace," located in "'Sabato del Villaggio' Square." The present palace was renovated in the mid eighteenth century by Canonical and architect Carlo Orazio Leopardi. It has kept the books Monaldo accumulated from his father, a famous scholar and knowledgeable collector of rare books. The library is primarily historical and has over twenty-five thousand volumes. Count Monaldo Leopardi used to leave free access to these rooms to all family members, friends and fellow citizens. The library occupies five rooms, two fully dedicated to Giacomo, the so-called "Leopardi Room" is in fact reserved for works concerning the poet and which were published after his death; the other, added later, preserves some manuscripts by the famous poet.
The first of these rooms has a portrait of Giacomo Leopardi, a pencil drawing by an artist from Lugo called Luigi Lolli. The history of this picture is quite curious, and worth a mention: Giacomo Leopardi, as is known, was unwilling to have a portrait painted, perhaps because the deformity he suffered back. However, during the publication of his collected works, he was persuaded by the lawyer Brighenti, his friend, to publish the book with a portrait that was done in pencil by Luigi Lolli; from this design an engraving was then performed in Bologna. But neither the design nor engraving pleased Leopardi, who, in a letter to his sister Paolina, of May 18, 1830, wrote: "[...] Dear ‘Pilla’, the picture is very ugly, however, you show it around so, so the people of Recanati see ... that 'the hunchback of the Leopardi' counted something in the world, while Recanati is not even known by the name [...]".
Rest and relaxation, and a long lunch
Note that just as it’s very difficult for the tourist to leave Recanati without having seen the Palace of Leopardi, it is also likely that he will also enjoy the typical cuisine of the city, which is very varied. Among the starters, there are the “crostini with chicken livers” and the cold cuts, like the famous “ciauscolo”. Among main courses, it is worth tasting the “Cappelletti” and "stracciatella" in broth, the pasta with hare sauce or duck sauce, risotto with quail, the "vincisgrassi" and the traditional pasta and beans"and pasta and chickpeas. Among the main courses, typical of the region try "rolls Marches", the "pig livers spit", the roast pork, the lamb steaks fried or grilled, mutton chops, rabbit in pork, roast duck, goose in the oven, and pigeons stuffed. Other highlights (time permitting for several meals!) include the so-called “ Gobbi in umido”, stuffed zucchini, roasted tomatoes, and beans in pork. Be sure to match the fine food with the most suitable wines, like “Rosso Piceno”, “Rosso Conero” and “Bianco dei Colli di Macerata”.
See also history of Recanati