Visit Italy > Lombardy > Pavia
Visit Pavia
Pavia is in the southern part of Lombardy, deep in the heart of Italian rice-growing territory, about 30 kilometres south of Milan.
It is difficult to do justice to the very rich artistic heritage of Pavia in a short time, but by careful planning you have the chance to visit the best art and architecture of the city. Start your visit in the south, at Borgo Ticino, which is a good introduction to Pavia. Here we see immediately the 12th century Church of Santa Maria di Betlem, a typical example of Pavia Romanesque style. Next go beyond the 'Covered Bridge' across the Ticino River (entirely reconstructed after the bombing of World War II), and enter into the city, going as far as the Strada Nuova.
On the right there is the 12th century Church of San Michele, in a wonderful Romanesque style and also historically important, because it was here that the coronations of the Kings of Italy once took place. The facade is exceptional, with a central portal richly carved and dating from around 1120. Inside the church there are several frescoes including The four Evangelists by Pier Francesco Sacchi, as well as some paintings by Guglielmo Caccia (known as Moncalvo).
Returning to Strada Nuova and continuing along Via Cardano there is the Church of San Teodoro, an example of Romanesque architecture made of mixed brickwork and masonry, with the interior divided in three naves, with a beautiful fresco of the 14th century showing Pavia in 1300. In this church there are also many paintings attributed to Carlo Sacchi.
Leaving the Church of San Teodoro, go back along Via Cardano to Strada Nuova. Continue as far as the crossroads between Corso Cavour and Corso Mazzini. Pause here, because right and left, wherever we go, there are some fine examples of art in Pavia.
Heading along Corso Mazzini go straight on to Piazza della Vittoria and then turn left to find the Cathedral and the 'Broletto'. Pavia Cathedral was started in 1488 by Christopher Rocchi, and then its construction was continued by other great artists, including Bramante, Francesco di Giorgio, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo and Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono. The inner space is grandiose and imposing, accentuated by Latin archs and high pillars. Opposite the entrance is the equestrian statue of Marco Aurelio (or Septimius Severus). Next to the Duomo, there is the 13th century Palace of the Broletto - impressive outside, and with a very spacious interior enhanced by the presence of Roman archs.
Turning back towards Corso Mazzini, continue along Strada Nuova to find the University and admire the Renaissance courtyards with a constant succession of Loggias, colonnades, statues and inscriptions. Exiting from the University, go along Via Roma and passed the 'Via 20th September' to find the 14th century Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, with a magnificent façade of brickwork with a great central "rose window" and the pilaster strips which come unlaced as they rise the high pinnacles.
Return towards Strada Nuova and towards the Via XI February: on your right-hand rises the Castle of the Visconti [Castello Visconteo]; on your left the Church of San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro.
Pavia Castle
Pavia Castle was erected between 1360 and 1365 by Galeazzo II Visconti, with the help of Venetian architects (Bernard from Venice and Jacobello Dalle Masegne). The architectural aspect is extraordinarily rich in artistic forms, dominated by galleries with mullioned windows, and windows with three lights and perforated rose-windows. Unfortunately few of the frescoes have survived - these include fine works by Bonifacio Bembo and Vincenzo Foppa. It is an extraordinary Castle for architectural and pictorial forms (the courtyards are also magnificent, surrounded by arcades of Venetian style).
The castle had a very illustrious past, and visitors included Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci. One of its halls contained a library rich in ancient illuminated books. Today castle at Pavia is also the seat of the Civics Museum, which collects the ruins of the oldest discoveries of Pavia. See also the Pinacoteca Civica, which includes priceless works of art by Antonello da Messina; Correggio (a "Holy Family"); Pier Francesco Mazzucchelli (the 'Adoration of the Magi), as well as many others.
Pavia Charterhouse (Certosa di Pavia)
No visit to Pavia would be complete without a visit to the the famous Carthusian Monastery known as the Certosa di Pavia, which stands in the countryside a few kilometres from the city. First among the highlights is the façade, executed between the 15th and 16th century, which presents a high point of Renaissance art. Within the building there are cloisters, frescoes, and alterpieces by leading renaissance artists to discover.
Indeed it is the profusion of paintings and sculptures of Certosa that comes as the greatest surprise to a visitor: see in particular the works by Perugino and Bergogne but allow time to enjoyt some of the many others by artists including Bernardino Luini; Giovanni Antonio Amadeo; Cristoforo Lombardo; Giacomo Mantegazza; Cristoforo Solari (aka Gobbo - the 'Hunchback); Gian Cristoforo Romano...and others in a long list!
The gastronomic art in Pavia and region
With our visit to the Certosa, we have moved in the country around Pavia - what better reason to savour the local cuisine! Local first courses include Risotto alla Certosina (Carthusian risotto) - named after the Carthusian Monastery, this ancient recipe comes from the same Carthusian monks (the ingredients are rice, oil, prawn, frogs, fillets of perch, butter, leeks, celery, carrots, white wine). Very good also (as hors doeuvre) is the so-called "salame di Varzi".
Among the second courses, try the Peverada (ingredients are include egg yolk, garlic, capers, lemon, vinegar, nutmeg, salt and pepper). Also excellent the "goose with Savoy cabbage' (ingredients: goose, Savoy cabbages, butter, oil, laurel, ribbed, tomatoes, broth and white wine). before finishing your visit to Pavia also taste the famous goats cheese, accompanied by white wines (eg the Reisling Italico and Renano), or the Grey Pinot, or, if you prefer red wine, a good Barbera.
Related article: discover some off the historical events that have played a role in the town at history of Pavia.
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