Empoli is located in Tuscany, in the plain of the River Arno Valley, north of Arno and west from the river Elsa.
Empoli has a typical medieval square, called 'Piazza Farinata degli Uberti', with wide porches, galleries and monuments such as the façade of the Romanesque Collegiate Church and the so-called "Fountain of the Lions", dating from the 19th century.
The expansion of the ancient walled city followed a circular plan - the extension to the north is characterized by the Piazza Gramsci, while the 'new' construction to the north-west was based around the rectangular Piazza Matteotti, characterized by a very large green area and the river Arno, to which it is connected by an avenue of trees.
Therefore your visit to the historic center of Empoli can best start from Piazza Farinata degli Uberti.
Collegiate Church of St. Andrew
To the east stands out the Collegiate Church, the ancient church dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle. The Collegiate Church of St. Andrew, as we can see in the inscription on the façade, dates from 1093, though it is probably much older. (M. Ristori observed that studies conducted on the inscription on the façade show that it was removed from another building and then placed in the church of St. Andrew.)
The façade is made of green and white marble, in the typical Romanesque-Florentine style. Its interior was renovated in the 18th century and again after severe damage suffered during the Second World War. Inside the Collegiate Church of St. Andrew is the triptych of the "Crucifixion" by Lorenzo di Bicci* (1350-1420), dating from 1399 and depicting the "Madonna Enthroned with Saints Martino, Andrea, Agata and John the Baptist."
The side chapels hold other important works of art, including the "Holy Cross" a wooden artifact of the 14th century once revered for its miracles and still preserved in the first chapel on the right, and a fresco depicting "The Martyrdom of Saint Lucia", attributed to a minor painter called Francesco (known as 'Fiorentino'), dating from the early 15th century. The church also contains a number of sacred objects such as chalices, crosses, reliquaries and sacred objects dating from the 16th and 19th centuries, as well as illuminated manuscripts of the 13th and 16th centuries.
Museum of the Collegiate Church
Also very important in Empoli is the Museum of the Collegiate Church, where there are works like the "Pietà" by Masolino da Panicale (1383-1440), a pupil of Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455) and an “excellent master” [ G.Vasari, “Lives”, 1850, p. 382] and painted pottery by the school of the Della Robbia family (15th -16th centuries), two triptychs by Lorenzo Monaco [that is 'Laurence the Monk', who executed remarkable altarpieces] (1370-1424) and the "Majesty" by Filippo Lippi (1406-1469).
The third room contains older works, like the altarpiece of an anonymous artist of the Pistoia area of the early 14th century, called "Master of 1336"*. In another room you can see the Tabernacle of St. Sebastian, by Francesco Botticini (1446-1498).
Other highlights in Empoli
Among the civil buildings in Empoli note in particular the “Palazzo del Podesta” (Praetorian Palace) and situated near the Collegiate Church of St. Andrew - this palace was the ancient seat of the Municipality of Empoli. It was enlarged with some rooms, like the Audience Hall, the prisons, the archive, and the Chapel of St. Thomas. Worthy of particular note is the massive wooden door of the late 15th century and the clock tower.
We must also mention the so-called "Palazzo Ghibellino", belonging to the Counts Guidi which is now home to the Civic Museum of Paleontology of Empoli.
Along “Via dei Neri” is the Church of Santo Stefano of the Augustinian Friars, which preserves some sinopias by Masolino da Panicale and the "Annunciation" by Bernardo Rossellino (1409-1464), who worked with Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472) on the Palazzo Rucellai. Next is the 14th century Monastery of Santo Stefano, witha 16th century cloister. Adjacent to the Augustinian convent is the Municipal Library.
Empoli also has a considerable number of small ancient churches like the Church of San Martino and the Church of Santa Maria in Ripa, which contain art works of the 14th and 16th centuries.
The medieval aspect of Empoli is reflected in its narrow winding streets and alleys, for example the "Alley of the Gendarmerie" - so called because the imperial gendarmerie was based here during the Napoleonic period (1808-1814). The path ends to the west of the center in Piazza Garibaldi and near the remains of "Porta Pisana", dating from the 15th century. Opposite to here stands the small church of St. Anthony Abbot, erected in 1583 and then renewed in 1610.
Also worth a visit is the castle of Pontorme, once home to Iacopo Carrucci*. In the ancient church of San Michele Arcangelo, following restoration, we can see "Saints John the Evangelist and Archangel Michael", which, according to G. Vasari, dates back to 1519. The visit to Pontorme offers the opportunity to properly appreciate the landscape of the surroundings of Empoli, characterized by the typical river landscape, rich in vineyards and olive groves and highly urbanized, according to the typical Tuscan tradition.
Michel de Montaigne (1533-1592) was impressed by the beauty of the country landscape of Empoli during his journey into Italy, and his lengthy prose is a pleasure to read:
“Sunday 2d of July I left Florence after dinner and passing the Arno left that river on the right though we still went in the direction of its course. We proceeded along a lovely and richly fertile plain which produces among other things the finest melons that are grown in Tuscany. The best sort of melons are not ripe till about the middle of July. The place where the very choicest are produced is Legnaia three miles from Florence.
Our route continued through a splendid open country with castles gentlemen's seats detached houses and villages on one side or the other almost the whole way along Among the rest we passed through a pretty place called 'Empoli', a name which to my ear smacked of the old time; but I saw no vestiges of antiquity there except close by the high road a ruined bridge which had look of something about it.
I was struck in these parts with three things: first seeing all the people of the district working on Sundays getting in the harvest, secondly with seeing the peasantry after their day's labour sitting with lutes in their hands their fair ones beside them reciting from memory the stanzas of L. Ariosto [1474-1519] (but this is also to be seen in every part of Italy) and thirdly with finding that they left corn out in the fields ten or fifteen days or more without any apprehension of its being stolen” ( See M. de Montaigne, “Diary of a Journey through Swizerland and Germany into Italy”, edited by O. W. Wight, 1859, pp. 412-413).
To the landscape around Empoli is linked the ancient tradition of local cuisine, represented by products among which we mention the famous "Empolese Artichoke", with which dishes such as the "Artichokes all' ‘empolese’" are produced. Handicraft production is related to the artistic manufacturing of glass, and it offers a wide selection of various objects for interior decoration, made of colored glass.
See also history of Empoli.
* See artist notes at historical Italian artists
Map of Empoli & places to visit
Selected places to visit near Empoli
See the Tuscany guide for more travel ideas...