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Visit Chiusi

Chiusi (full name; Chiusi-della-Verna) is in the eastern part of the Tuscany region of Italy, and about 60 km to the east of Florence.

Situated in the Val di Chiana at about 400 metres above sea level it is among the most ancient Italian cities. Traditionally this region was known as Casertino.

Your visit to Chiusi can start from the Piazza del Duomo and the Cathedral of San Secondiano...

Chiusi cathedral: the origins of the cathedral date back to the 6th century, although it has been expanded and renovated over the centuries. Inspired architecturally by paleo-Christian basilicas, the cathedral has three naves, divided by columns that support Roman arches. In the central nave you can admire the decorative false mosaic painted by Arturo Viligiardi (1869-1936); in the left aisle there is an altarpiece by Bernardino Fungai (1460-1516), depicting the 'Adoration of the Child and Saints'. Excavations in the Cathedral in recent years have also unearthed fragments of mosaics with geometric motifs that are now preserved in the Cathedral Museum.

The Cathedral Museum contains paintings and work of jewellery of considerable value, such as “Madonna and Child” by Sano di Pietro (1406-1481), whose subject was picked up by other artists who worked in the cathedral later, such as Girolamo di Benvenuto (1470-1524). Another significant painting is the 'Blessing of Christ' by Matteo Rosselli (1578-1650).

Continuing your tour, from the Cathedral Museum follow the route known as the Labyrinth of Porsenna, which winds beneath the town and  which was probably an aqueduct of Etruscan origin that has been modified over the centuries. This is a series of tunnels at different levels and different sizes. Some of it can be visited and it is a very evocative route that departs from the Cathedral Museum and reaches a big underground reservoir from the first century BC.

Just above rises the 12th century bell tower, a little distant from the church and formerly a defense tower.

National Etruscan Museum: Between the Via Porsenna and Via Nardi-Dei one of the most important cultural centres of the city is located, namely the National Etruscan Museum. The Museum houses a considerable amount of archaeological finds. The visit follows a chronological and thematic organisation, starting with the Bronze Age, Iron Age and oriental influence, with various objects produced locally, such as the famous 'Buccheri', some typical black vases of Chiusi that date from the 6th century BC. The Etruscan Museum of Chiusi is also famous for the considerable amount of potteries, urns and statues - among the ceramics note the Attic black-figures (like the one depicting Achilles and Ajax playing dice in the presence of Athena) and the Attic red-figure (the "skyphos" by the Painter of Penelope, with various scenes from the “Odyssey”).

Moving on, along the Via Paolozzi, we reach the Church of Saint Francis, built entirely in brick according to the severe style of the Franciscan church and probably built between the 13th and 14th centuries. Inside it houses a fresco depicting the "Beheading of St. John the Baptist" by Niccolò Circignani (known as the Pomarancio - 1530-1597 ca.).

Next we enter the Piazza XX Settembre, where we find the Town Hall, the Clock Tower and the Lodges, and also the Church of Santa Maria della Morte. The city walls were in large part destroyed during World War II, leaving only some sections intact and only one gate (Lavinia Gate) of the three that originally opened through the walls.

Etruscan necropolis: The visit to Chiusi can be concluded with a tour of the famous Etruscan necropolis of the city. Of great renown is the so-called 'Tomb of the Monkey' (5th century BC), consisting of a hall and three rooms decorated with funerary couches. The tomb was discovered in the nineteenth century by A. François and owes its name to a wall painting that depicts a monkey tied to a bush. Also interesting are the "Tomb of the Lion" (so named because of wall decorations depicting the feline) which has a porch and three bedrooms, one of which communicates with a well); and the "Tomb of the Pilgrim" (IV-II century BC, discovered in 1928, and consisting of a corridor on which are four niches and three burial chambers.

Chiusi Catacombs

Besides the Etruscan necropolis, Chiusi also boasts the presence on its territory of ancient catacombs. Some of them, dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria (IV century) and of small size were discovered in the mid-nineteenth century; they are composed of two ancient pagan tombs reused by Christian communities between the second and third centuries AD. Here there are many graves in the floor. Equally interesting is the catacomb of St. Mustiola (III Century), which lies north-east of Chiusi and it has larger than its predecessor. Discovered in 1643, it consists of a series of tunnels where they were buried the remains of the martyr Mustiola, a young patrician who died in 274 AD.

(See also: history of Chiusi)

Chiusi restaurants and cuisine

Having tasted so much Etruscan, Roman and Paleo-Christian culture you will find plenty of local restaurants offering very interesting 'historical' dishes. Perhaps the dish known as "Etruscan Pigeon", or another called “Pasta Lucunome”, in honour of the ancient Etruscan city magistrates.

If you prefer dishes a little 'more modern', we suggest the delicious handmade "Pici". The traditional cuisine also offers us “polenta topped with pork” and soups such as the “stracciatella” (whisked egg and cheese). Among the wines to be tasted without the slightest hesitation are the Brunello di Montalcino and Vin Santo, to accompany with the Cantucci (biscotti). Enjoy!