Visit Camerino
Camerino is a small town situated in the centre of the Marche region of Italy, south-west of San Severino.
An extraordinary city of art, Camerino is surrounded by walls that show the key military role of its origins. The massive walls were built by Berengar of Lvrea, and remained intact until the next power-change when the territory was taken from Duke Da Varano and Cesare Borgia - they built a fortress that had defensive and control functions in anticipation of potential rebellions.
Historical note: the town was then entered through three gates, the Porta Malatestiana, Porta Caterina Cibo and Porta Boncompagni. The city was also divided into three "Terzieri" (or "quarters"; the term was used to indicate the parts where a small town had divided), called Sossanto, Di Mezzo and Muralto. The first expanded around the cathedral at Borgo San Venanzio; the second included the center, and the third was the south and west parts of city. Even today, the anniversary of the so-called Corsa della Spada ('Race of the Sword') and 'Palio' recalls the rivalries that divided the terzieri of Camerino.
A tour of Camerino
A visit to Camerino can start from Piazza Cavour, which offers tourists the opportunity to immediately appreciate the value of artistic heritage in the town. The Cathedral is the most recent of three cathedrals here, the first dating back to the 7th century; the second to the 12th century, of Romanesque and Gothic style (but damaged by the earthquake of 1799), and, finally, the current structure, with its neoclassical motifs inside, is by Andrea Vici (1743-1817), a pupil of Vanvitelli (1700-1773).
Next there is the Archbishop's Palace (XVI century), which contains works of art dating back to the 13th and 18th centuries, from churches around the country. Among these are a triptych by Girolamo di Giovanni, depicting "The Crucifixion", "St Michael and St John the Baptist” and "St. Veneziano and St. Giacomo" (15th century). The collection also presents a picture by Luca Signorelli [1445-1523] ("The Annunciation and the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian") and some works attributed to Guido Reni (1575-1642) School, and various church ornaments.
Most important is the visit to the Ducal Palace, which at the time of its construction, probably around 1489-1492, was called the 'new house' to distinguish it from the 'old houses' of the Varano in the "terziere" of “Sossanto”. Giulio Cesare Varano initially conceived the building not as a personal residence, but as a Palace to accommodate famous guests. We know of the Palace of Varano in 1502, because at the time Camerino was defeated by Cesare Borgia and Julius Caesar Varano was killed (1502) Pope Alexander wrote an inventory of the Palace describing it as comprising more than 40 rooms and a stable capable of holding 94 horses. The interior was all painted and exterior finished in graffiti, depicting the arms of Varano (the famous "sea dog") and a sequence of mythological scenes. The Ducal Palace now houses the Faculty of Law and has been restored, restoring the brightness and vividness of the frescoes. Of particular importance is the courtyard, through which we enter a balcony, built beside the 'Palazzo Ducale', which offers a wide “panorama” of Camerino.
From Piazza Cavour we continue our tour of Camerino along Corso Vittorio Emanuele to reach the Town Hall, next to the Theater, designed by Vincenzo Ghinelli and opened in 1856. Continuing along Corso Vittorio Emanuele we arrive at Piazza Garibaldi, and then after Via Lili we come to the Baroque style Church of Santa Maria, begun in 1639 and designed by Camillo Arcucci (1568-1630), a pupil of Borromini (1599-1667). In the apse there is a 13th century 'Madonna with Child', painted by a “Master of Camerino”.
Having reached the Piazzale della Vittoria ('Victory Square') we get to the public gardens, situated where once there was an ancient moat which divided the city from the Fortress of Cesare Borgia.
At the other end of the town are the Art Gallery and the Archaeological Museum, housed in the church and halls of the former convent of 'San Domenico', where numerous works of local painters are preserved, such as those by Cola di Pietro da Camerino, active between the late 14th and early 15th century, and considered the founder of the local Painting School.
The Camerino Art Gallery houses a 'Crucifixion' by this local artist, while his other works can be seen in various local churches of Camerino. Another local artist is Arcangelo di Cola, active from 1416 to 1492, whose work shows the influence of the "International Gothic" as well as by Gentile da Fabriano (1375-1427), Masaccio (1401-1428) and Beato Angelico (1395-1455). In this gallery there is his 'Madonna Enthroned with Child and Angels', painted for the church of S. Francis between 1428 and 1429. Some frescoes of this artist are also visible in the Church of the Crucifix (Pioraco). Finally, among the local artists, we mention the names of Giovanni di Piermatteo Boccati (1410-1486) and Girolamo di Giovanni (active from 1449 to 1473).
Finally, among the other sacred buildings of Camerino note the Church of St. Philip which retains the 'Madonna and Child with St. Filippo Neri' by Tiepolo (1696-1770).
Places to visit around Camerino - fortresses, fortifications...and lunch
Around Camerino are scattered large fortifications built by the Varano to defend the territory. Definitely to visit are the 'Fortress of Sentino' and to the east, Varano Fortress, built in a position that allowed the control of the Chienti Valley, an area that, even at some distance from Camerino, presents an unbroken series of fortresses located in the surrounding villages, such as the castles of Pievefavera, Vestignano and Montalto.
These places allow the visitor not only a fascinating cultural visit to the region around Camerino but also an opportunity to come into direct contact with the culinary traditions of the city, with its famous "Torrone," for example, accompanied by some fortified wines typical of the Chienti Valley such as the Viccotto, while with meat and cheeses we recommend the classic Vernaccia.
See also history of Camerino